Guidelines for stop-motion


I’ll expand a little here on what you saw in the video above.  You haven’t watched the video above?  What more need be said?  Please press play..


_____________________________


Latex


This was the first time I’d used latex, and I learnt heaps.  It’s very tempting to try and coat it on thickly, but in the end this is false economy.  The first coat you apply really needs to be your best coat.  That is:


  1. thin

  2. smooth, and

  3. dried correctly.


Correct drying involves a well ventilated room- latex goes moldy very quickly (no pun intended) so keep the room as dry as possible, and when you’re done, keep the finished latex mold as dry as possible.  It seems to me also that prolonged sunlight is a bit of a no-no.


When slicing your clay model (if indeed you are making a mold of clay) it can be a good idea to *very* gently heat the cut side of each half with a hot air gun or a hairdryer.  This helps form a perfect seal around the edges of the halves, preventing the latex from seeping underneath.


The basic steps I took:


  1. 1.I brushed thin latex onto both halves of the original head, allowing it dry well in between each coat.  I repeated this at least 20 times.
















  1. 2. I made a “mother mold”, which is designed to support the flexible latex mold when it comes time to cast the clay.  The mother mold is poured over the top of the latex mold; I used a large pipe section to retain the plaster whilst it set.















  1. 3. I removed the mother mold from the plaster, and then the original clay from the latex.  The latex sometimes requires a bit of tidying up at this point.


  1. 4.I placed the latex mold back into the plaster mold, and then pressed small pieces of clay into the latex.  When I was finished, I joined the two halves of the clay together, and smoothed the join, as well as refining other features.  A tip here is to use small pieces of clay, warming them with your hands so that they find their way into the nooks and crannies of the latex mold.


Interchangeable parts


I needed to be able to change out Jakob’s many heads and know that they’d register in the same position.  His torso is a balsa block with a hole drilled into it.  I used thick armature wire as “necks” for his heads, and this makes like a lot easier than having to sculpt a head on each time


Guides


Using guides in stop-motion can be very helpful.  Rather than attempting to animated Jakob peeking under the table by placing a table over him, I used a balsa wood strut as a guide for where he needed to place his hands.  I learned here not to overstep the mark that I’d made for myself!  In the movie you’ll notice his fingers go a little too far and are chopped off my the masking that I did afterwards.  Hopefully the audiences’ attention is directed towards the center, in any case.

MORE “making of”more_making_of_The_crumb_that_got_away.htmlshapeimage_9_link_0


more..


That covers latex molding, interchangeable parts and guides.


Would you like to learn more about props at different scales, supporting props, a simple camera move trick, and motion-blurred backgrounds?

digg this!http://digg.com/submit?url=http://www.coolfusion.com.au/Wombarra_Studios/The_making_of_The_crumb_that_got_away.html&title=The+making+of+The+crumb+that+got+away&media=newsshapeimage_10_link_0